The Jyestesa Temple
As we reached this place in the Ganderbal district situated amidst much scenic beauty and that too near the mighty river Sindhu/Indus, we were approached by a tall and impressive man who imperially asked for money. He was retarded. Then, our guide was approached by a local trekking organiser, since tourists go trekking from Naranag.
Anyway, I’m digressing… The temple ruins look impressive, though in a bad state. Built by Lalitaditya Muktapida around the 8th century, this one is called the Jyesthesa temple (see K. Warikoo’s Cultural Heritage Of Jammu And Kashmir 2009: 87-88).
Had we come all the way to see this sole structure? Well, can’t really complain because the route and the place were enchanting. “There’s another structure below. Come with me,” says Nawaz, our guide. That’s when we look down and see another impressive temple, in the same Aryan style: the Bhutesa temple. This one is larger than the former, and it contains a stone structure that serves as a pool for bathing. And legend has it that this was donated by King Avantivarman during his visit to this temple.
The main shrine is once again painfully empty…
…but a shivalinga seems to have been installed in one of the side shrines; it’s probably of a recent date.
This area is populated by the Gujjars, who are a pastoral tribe with a distinct language and culture. The language, Gu(o)jri is said to be close to Punjabi. These people are different from the inhabitants of the rest of Kashmir.
Children were just as curious as anywhere else…
The highlight of this trip was a lovely song I heard, a song that sounded as if it came straight out of the heart. Looking around for the source of this voice, I found a tiny diva who went on with her concert, unabashed and undisturbed by my notice or my camera’s, as her mother kept on performing the chores. That song gladdened the heart, and made me wish I had something to record it with. Too late… but not too late for the next journey.
pathikaa 